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Originally Posted by steagall1000  I agree with you on your answer to this problem. Whether its a 4 head blinder or two head it doesn't matter. The officer can still get punch-through on my lower bumper. I know this because I got a speeding ticket over 5 months ago when a officer shot at me from a angle shot at 400 feet. My blinder M35 didn't even go off. Here is a pic of my car. look directly under my head lights and where the bumper curves, is where he got me. I know this because I went back to the site where the officer sat and had my friend drive my car towards me. I tried different shots at the front and head lights and the ultralyte set the blinder off and jammed. But the minute I targeted just under the head light where the bumper starts to curve, the blinder never alerted and I got instant punch-through.  |
I'm very glad that you replied,
steagall - indeed, I do now agree with your assessment....that there's a bigger problem, and that it's not due to your placement, that it is, indeed, jammer-inherent.
Before I checked back on this thread, I went back to one of your/your friend's videos, which I first saw on RD.net:
YouTube - Blinder J15 Front and Rear Shots
Between time 1:42 to 1:47, you clearly cited that the setup was a J15, M75, with 5 (five) heads up front.
This is backed-up by your supplied photo:
And with that confirmation, we now go back to the video.....
Throughout the 2:23 to 2:35 time-stamped runs, it was JTG. I honestly expected the rest of your front-shots to play out this way, given that it is a M55 setup, on just the front of the vehicle.
Yet, in the 2:40 to 2:55 run, at time-point appx. 2:45 to 2:46 (if you're able to freeze it at precisely that time-point, I see exactly what you see, the targeting reticle is directly at that area, but to extrapolate back to time point 2:44:50 or 2:45, I would imagine that the reticle would be even further out, towards the fender, yet still at your cited weakpoint), indeed, your cited point-vulnerability was noted (PT/burnthrough of 46 MPH) - at the passgenger's side lower front bumper corner.
And later, on your first "rear" run, at time point 3:25-3:26, we hear a lock-tone from the Ultralyte, and in the next half second (followed to time point 3:28), we see the locked speed reading of 43 MPH. While the locked reading appears when the aiming reticle is on a more upper portion of your bumper (and even hood) than our current point-of-interest, in viewing the video over and over, I can't help but think that we actually heard "lock," at time point 3:25, when the point-of-aim was, again, in your cited weakpoint, low on the front bumper, off in the corner.....
Like I said at the beginning of this post, FWIW, I think you're right,
steagall - this does look like a case where the limits of the jammer has been reached
From what I can see, you've positioned your heads ideally.
The two in the upper/main grill ideally protect your headlights, and the one where the front plate would be ideally reinforces center-mass.
Each of the two in your below-bumper radiator opening are displaced as far outboard as possible, and I'd wager that, by the looks of the driver's side unit in the picture you've provided, that you've got them oriented so that the receivers are as far outboard as possible, too.
You've done all you can, in my very humble opinion.
This is not a setup fault - it does look like the technical limits of the device has been reached.
Question: Out of curiosity, what's the linear measurement to the outer flanks, both at the headlights (as measured from both the upper set of jammers, to the outer corners of the headlamps, as well as from the lower set to the same triangulated point - and also again from each jammer head to the lower bumper area, where you're having trouble)?
I'm betting it's either exceeding the "18-inch rule," or is very close to such, and that's why you're seeing problems.
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Maybe you can give me some idea's. I was thinking maybe a black bra on the front. What do you think TSi+WRX?
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What I can't really understand is why you're not also having problems at the upper corners of and also outer edges of your headlights.
By looking at the picture you've provided, it would seem to reason, to me, that those areas would be equally problematic, given the concern you're seeing at the lower bumper skin area.
I can't quite figure that one out....
But if I'm pressed to say something, I'll go with this:
The reasoning that I'd like to propose, as an answer, would be whether or not it's because of the effects we're seeing in
VEIL Guy's IR-videos - specifically, this one:
YouTube - Night Operation: IR Reflectivity Challenge on Large Vehicle
Note the same area on his BMW's lower air-dam, to the left and right of the main lower radiator opening right below his fog/driving/cornering lights. There's an extra aero "lip" protrusion, which, with its curvatures, you'll note is literally "flaring" under IR.
[
If you can't understand where I'm talking about - I do apologize - have a look at time-point 7:25 in that video, VEIL Guy literally has his hand right on that spot. After seeing what I'm talking about, there, you should then be able to pick up that "flaring" throughout the rest of the video. ]
In returning to the point, I'm trying to make, you'll note that your lower bumper is configured rather interestingly, at that area.
There's that little aero-minded protrusion on your bumper, too, but also, interestingly enough, you've got a flat surface, right below where your actual bumper-beam resides behind the bumper skin.
I wonder what's doing you more harm.
That curved aero enhancement, which, as we see in
VEIL Guy's video, is a huge point-flare of light reflection - or, alternatively, if that FLAT spot between your bumper beam's "cap" and the lower aero flare is causing the actual PT/burnthrough.
The way I see it, here's your options:
(1) The bra. This might be really effective, particularly if you can get a matte/rough surfaced one, but at the same time, I'd hate to see something like that ruin the aesthetics of your EX. Despite the really handsome, next-generation looks of the current Accord sedans and coupes, I still really like the aesthetics of the previous-generation Accord, particularly of its most distinctive front-end. And that bra's gonna be rather ugly. But if you used it exclusively for longer trips, with higher risk, the trade-off, at least temporary, might just be worth it.
(2) Mount a ste of heads UNDER the bumper skin, at that area. I know GA roads are smooooooooth. I grew up there, during my high-school years, when I drove, for pleasure (and stupidity!) a lot. Let's just say that when I went back to Baltimore for my undergrad studies (having left that city, for Atlanta, during my middle-school years), I was surprised at how bad the roads were....and that when I then came to Cleveland, I was doubly shocked. Still, regardless of how smooth the roads (and regardless of the fact that you're stil at stock suspension height and travel), I'd be rather leery of putting heads THAT low, for road-debris/parking damage (not only curbs, which would include U-turns on public roadways, but also more aggressive parking stops) reasons. I'd imagine that this would *definitely* solve the issue, but it may not be the best way to go.
(3) Drastic surgery. Either cut the bumper skin and embed a head there, or, alternatively, source aftermarket (or even OEM take-off; no matter what, these should be aplenty, if not necessarily inexpensive, given the favor that Import-Sport-Compact tuners grace the Honda name with, and also with the simple number of such vehicles on-road) headlamp units, and modify their structure to "embed" a jammer head within. The problem I see of the headlamp modification is that it's really going to be VERY, very drastic, as you will need to literally take out a piece of the headlamp's outer lens, place the Blinder head within the cutout (since you can't just place the heads "behind' the outer headlamp lens, as that would be equivalent to putting the heads behind, say, vehicle greenhouse glass - and you know well from your own testing how ineffective that can be), and then seal around the cut area - this will be both technically as well as aesthetically EXTREMELY challenging. I'd honestly rather just go with cutting the bumper skin, which a competent body shop should be able to easily effect, with excellent cosmetic results. I'd, at the same time, "embed" a set of aftermarket LED "marker" lights, or even standard fog/driving lamps, both oval/rectangular in shape, in that area, to effect some cosmetic camouflage of the Blinder heads.
(4) Troubleshoot the system.
4(a) Be sure that those heads actually are working, and also, that you're sourcing power independently for EACH distinct/separate "system" you're using. If you're pulling power from a common tap, that might, in and of itself, be the cause of your problem.
4 (b) Eliminate potential crosstalk. Since you're using what I can imagine would be at least two separate Blinder systems up front, my concern here would be whether if the heads firing from the separate systems are firing in-sync? or if they're producing consistently inconsistent negative crosstalk. In this respect, I'd like to see what your setup's performance would be, with those specific weakness areas, if you ran a setup that:
- utilized only the upper two heads, and the central lower, on one c-box
- utilized only the upper two heads, and two outer lower, on one c-box
- utilized only the three lower heads, on one c-box
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I believe you and I are on the same page TSi+WRX, we may have our disagreements, but in the end we still come together as enthusiest.
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+1.
Your right 
Thats it :) 
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